It’s Monday 14th September. I have a deadline looming – and I’m not the only one: the clock is counting down. In a matter of a few short days, London Fashion Week will be upon us. And not just any fashion week either, but the 25th anniversary of this much-esteemed event on the seasonal sartorial calendar. Cause for excitement indeed – certainly an adequate reason to break out the Louboutins.

Of course, all the stalwarts will be there: Betty Jackson, Basso and Brooke, Vivienne Westwood, and Aquascutum, among many others. Even Burberry Prorsum have returned to mark the occasion, with Christopher Bailey bringing the iconic English fashion house back to British shores, after a long stint in Milan.

So, who is he? To give the Reader’s Digest style, abridged-for-blog version, Fast studied fashion design at London’s Central St Martins for five years, before completing a masters in February 2008. He created knitted pieces for Bora Aksu over three seasons while still at St Martins, and his graduate show at London Fashion Week in 2007 piqued the interest of buyers from London’s Browns Focus. In January of this year, he was awarded NEWGEN support, and a month later was showing his A/W 09 collection in the tent at London Fashion Week. His pieces are stocked in 7 countries around the world, from France to Egypt, and over to Russia. All Fast’s work is done by hand, on a domestic knitting machine. And before your head fills with images of your nana’s wardrobe, please put such presumptuous notions on hold. His clothes caress the body like a second skin, formed on the body as he works, with every contour informing the direction of the fabric. Not only that, he manipulates the very nature and composition of the fabric he uses, merging lycra with wool, angora or viscose. He’s also been praised for his cutting-edge, innovative stitching techniques. In short, he’s the breath of fresh air giving new life to a classic form, and pushing the creative envelope as far as the needles will let him.

Fast’s collection for A/W 2009 was awash with black, with flashes of vibrant orange, deep cerise and muted stone for good measure. Knitted fringing was a highlight – the 1920s flapper was clearly in the forefront of his mind, but there were subtle elements of 1970s and ethnic influence too, with the detailing reminiscent of the llama-fur edging of afghan coats. He turns his hand to the little black dress, with fierce results, with one featuring loose-woven panelling that at first glance looks like snakeskin. A hooded cardigan has a touch of the Morticia Addams about it, there are hints of geometry in a floor-grazing fringed gown, and an orange minidress takes us back to the 1980s – with some raw-edged rolled hems thrown in for good measure. Things then seem to go just a little sci-fi, the models’ collarbones adorned with strips of fabric, vaguely sinuous, a little bit alien space suit, and – is it just me? – a slight channelling of Old Gregg.

Fast does not believe quality, attention to detail and purity of form should be sacrificed in the quest for new aesthetic dimensions: “I believe that there is a growing attention to craftsmanship in fashion these days, as opposed to quick-fix disposable pieces. I am focussing on timeless classics”. Thank God for that! One less jumper that will disintegrate in the washing machine then, I hope.

By Gussy

By Charlotte Hoyle
Recent fashion times has seen an explosion of the rockstar esque model, more IT girl than supermodel these pioneers of anti-fashion personify London’s energetic fashion scene. Leading the brat pack are Alice Dellal and Daisy Lowe, both born from the glitterati of fashion they favour a grunge meets gothic style, something which recently has been emulated on the catwalk and the high street.

Their look is rebellious and provocative – rubber corsets, fitted t-shirts, black lipstick and macabre jewelry by designer Dominic Jones merges the world of fashion and fetish. Now seen on the likes of Lily Allen and Lizzy Jagger the new age of the rock chic is most defiantly in vogue. Wear with confidence whilst listening to Lady Gaga who herself took on the look in her video ‘Love Game’. Don’t overdo it keep it sexy and wear with an air of ‘who gives a f**k?’ London style.

ABOVE: High Knee Resoul Boot £110 by Faith, ASOS – French Connection Sahara Double Platform Court Shoes £110, Spike gold studded platform £75 by Topshop, Punk corset Sandal £130 by Topshop Boutique

 

Accessories are key to this look, more the better.

ABOVE: Python Chain bracelet £12.99 by Marc by Marc Jacobs, Tassel Zip Leather gloves £16 by Topshop, Black and gold chain belt £15 by New Look, Feather and chains necklace £35 by Topshop

If you really want to finish the look try gothic style makeup.

ABOVE: Barry M Glitter Dust £4.50, Barry M Nail Polish £3.00, M.A.C Lipstick in Cyber £12, Maybelline Lash Stiletto Mascara £7.82

By Katie Wright

From the get-go all was not as it seemed at Alexander Wang. The first exit was a trench coat that seemed to have been stretched and spliced to leave it drop-waisted and sleeveless. Other schizophrenic garments included a skirt masquerading as a shirt tied round the model’s waist, and an unusual sweatshirt/corset combo. There was plenty more in the sweatshirt vein as a sport influence was shown in huge American football player shoulders, letterman jackets, and gym kit ensembles.

Over at Ohne Titel, inspiration was apparently drawn from Egyptian wall paintings. Not sure how this translated into full body ankle to jawline cover-ups – mummy wraps maybe? – but I liked the swishy little flapper dresses.

And finally a special shout out to my fave dress of the day, by Shipley and Halmos. Perhaps I’m biased though – I’m wearing a Shipley and Halmos for Uniqlo dress as I type.

By Katie Wright

Remember that flashy catwalk action I mentioned? Well check out Jason Wu’s spectacular disco deluxe set. That was just for starters in a collection that was all about the details. The make up was exquisite (porcelain skin and ruby lips), the shoes magnificent (platforms in a ton of colour variations) and the clothes were a big old mix up – flirty skirts, pant suits, stripes, abstract prints, swirly graphics on cocktail dresses, feathers with clashing ribbon belts – and all divine. No wonder one of my style icons, Michelle Obama, is such a fan. I think she’d love the black and white number below.

The other stand out show of the day for me was Preen. There was serious sex appeal in dresses that were more like lingerie, with straps so fine they look like they could snap at the slightest pull, or on the other hand like they’d been knotted in place. It was all kind of kinky.

Erin Wasson’s second outing as super-turned-designer was pretty predictable, but fine if you just want to dress like her. There was a quite nifty holey/spotty theme going on, and brown ankle boots + white socks is an idea I intend to steal, but what the hell is up with that chevron striped skirt??

NYC Day 2 – All of the Fashion fun in NYC by Katie Wright

It’s NYFW day two, and Jenni Kayne appeals to my love of a bumble bee colour palette…

…as well as perfectly proving the equation: boxy boyish blazer + super short sequins = gorgeousness. The collection is a bit skinny bodycon here, a bit preppy sportswear there, and altogether a bit covetable.

Ports 1961 also played on the androgyny theme, putting quiffs and choir boy bobs atop models sporting a collection that was feminine and luxe in the extreme. A slew of floaty sack dresses in pastel pink, ivory and scarlet were given so many different twists (asymmetrical shoulders, Grecian drapery, sash belts) that it was hard to pick a favourite.

And the award for most unfortunate model of the day goes to look no. 10 at Wayne, where the frayed edging of a jacket made it look like the poor girl is having lady garden issues. Eek. That wasn’t the only briefs and jacket combo I’ve seen so far – I predict Lady Gaga’s influence is gonna be seen all over the shop in the coming weeks.

The September Issue – Katie Wright

Forget that sluggish Chanel number with Audrey Tatou, what is surely the fashion film of the year is out this week, R.J. Cutler’s brilliant documentary featuring the making of Vogue’s most important month, The September Issue. Ballad Of went to a preview screening at the BFI yesterday and we loved it. So is the real Anna Wintour as cruel and terrifying as her imagined Devil Wears Prada persona? The answer is, well, yes, but she clearly knows her stuff and her curt and brutally honest methods more than get the job done. Add to the queen bee’s starring role a load of eccentric personalities (Grace Coddington and Andre Leon Talley heading up the pack) plus a ton of perfectly-soundtracked movie montages (shoots, shows and visits to the top dog designers) and you’ve got the fashion fan’s must-see of the season.

p.s. check out Wintour’s appearance on David Letterman recently. Luckily in the movie she doesn’t attempt (and fail) to be funny quite so often…
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Links
The September Issue – http://www.theseptemberissue.com/#/home
Chanel – http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1035736/
Devil Wears Prada – http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0458352/
Wintour’s appearance – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1CfQnqNM0

An amazing photographer we love to work with….Amandine P!!

check out more of her work at http://www.flickr.com/photos/funcoolfluo/

The September Issue – Katie Wright

Forget that sluggish Chanel number with Audrey Tatou, what is surely the fashion film of the year is out this week, R.J. Cutler’s brilliant documentary featuring the making of Vogue’s most important month, The September Issue. Ballad Of went to a preview screening at the BFI yesterday and we loved it. So is the real Anna Wintour as cruel and terrifying as her imagined Devil Wears Prada persona? The answer is, well, yes, but she clearly knows her stuff and her curt and brutally honest methods more than get the job done. Add to the queen bee’s starring role a load of eccentric personalities (Grace Coddington and Andre Leon Talley heading up the pack) plus a ton of perfectly-soundtracked movie montages (shoots, shows and visits to the top dog designers) and you’ve got the fashion fan’s must-see of the season.

p.s. check out Wintour’s appearance on David Letterman recently. Luckily in the movie she doesn’t attempt (and fail) to be funny quite so often…
—————————————————–
Links
The September Issue – http://www.theseptemberissue.com/#/home
Chanel – http://www.imdb.com/title/tt1035736/
Devil Wears Prada – http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0458352/
Wintour’s appearance – http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3i1CfQnqNM0