New York all wrapped up

By on February 18, 2010

By Katie Wright

It’s been hard to keep up with all the action with all the big names over the final two days of New York Fashion week, and it’s only going to get busier with London Fashion Week starting tomorrow. I’ll be down at Somerset House blogging and tweeting my little socks off so be sure to follow @blondekatie on Twitter for snippets of the action from the front line.

Before all that, here’s a mammoth run down of ten more NYFW collections that caught my eye. Not necessarily a top ten per se, but a ten nonetheless.

1. Things were all boyish and blankety to begin with at 3.1 PHILIP LIM. I preferred the liberal use of purple sequins and chiffon trailing out to one side.

2. DEREK LAM’s girls were not to be messed with – they channeled cowboys, indians and the mafia.

3. Possibly my favourite collection of the season so far was one that featured an array of outlandish motifs - giant body-shaped belt buckles, bar codes, breast plates, crucifixes, jewels, gigantic bows and slogans to name but a few. JEREMY SCOTT combined them all to poke fun at fashion – but in the nicest possible way.

4. ‘Goth secretary’ were the words that sprang to mind for me at PROENZA SCHOULER. But in a good way. The scribble-patterned jeans and duffel coats were great too.

5. I love the way that OSCAR DE LA RENTA takes all the hottest models (Coco, Agyness, Karen, Sasha, Freja et al) and makes them over to look like middle-aged women from the eighties with big wavy hair and frosted lipstick, yet they still look amazing. I put it down de la Renta’s timeless clothes. As luxe, glamorous and expensive-looking as ever.

6. NARCISO RODRIGUEZ takes the cake for craziest head gear of the week. Nice asymmetrical dip-dyed sci-fiesque dresses too.

7. The highlights of VERA WANG’s collection for me were the adorable gothy princess dresses.

8. MARCHESA also nailed the goth-princess look, and took this season’s fixation on body art in a beautiful new direction.

9. The least practical and wearable (at least outside of the A-list lifestyle) aspects of REEM ACRA’s collection were also the most desirable – a coat full of holes and the oh so shiny and wonderful full-length gowns.

10. I don’t know much about MILLY, but I know this Parisiene beret and ubermini combination is a winner.

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New York Fashion Week continued

By on February 16, 2010

NYFW continued apace on day four with more of the big hitters (Carolina, Marc,  Calvin, more from Donna). We’ll get to those later, but  first here are a choice selection of note-worthy names and what they’re up to for Autumn/Winter 2010.

Cynthia steffe – It was a veritable school disco with Steffe’s girls  in a variety of uniform-grey and monochrome pinafores and mini-kilts.


At Lacoste, the obligatory sporting whites were out of the way it was a glorious riot of smiling models in colour-blocking brights. Practically everything was cropped – sleeves, tops, hems, you name it.  Great asymmetrical cloches too.

Managing to merge the 1890s and 1990s, Julian Louie’s minimalist Victorian dresses came with either long sleeves and ridiculously short skirts or mega high necks and no sleeves. A simple but effective equation.

Helmut Lang: T-shirt with wolf. Need I say more?

Ohne Titel explored a dark military sensibility throughout.

The spectrum of mismatched slighty grungey looks at Gary Graham was wide, but were all paired with mega high platforms.

Elise Overland went hell for leather. And velvet. And er human hair?

As usual, Victoria Beckham didn’t break much new ground, but she knows the value of keeping things simple and I’d happily take all 26 of these frocks for myself.

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New York Fashion Week: DKNY vs DvF

By on February 15, 2010

By Katie Wright

Two grand dames of New York fashion were on the menu on day three, and displayed some of the most wearable and desirable clothes we’ve seen all week.

Oftentimes, DIANE VON FURSTENBURG seems to pinpoint a location with a collection, rather than a specific era or aesthetic, and while last season the giant sandy backdrop was an obvious clue to travel abroad, for Fall 2010 the oil slick-black catwalk denoted that she was firmly back in the city. Diane’s girl this season is an urbanite who likes to mix and match boyish separates in skyscraper colours with flippy, flirty dresses. She also loves to play with texture – velvet here, leather there, and, when out on the town,  plenty sequins and shine.

Donna Karan has always had a knack for appealing to the city-dweller, and this year’s DKNY outing was no exception – almost every piece of this autumnal-toned collection could slot ideally into the wardrobes of girls and women everywhere. Her trademark drapey-clingy dresses were giving a Cubist makeover, and there’s a coat for every occasion – pea, duffel, gillet, boxy blazer – plus Karan’s interpretation of the emerging tartan trend was spot on.

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New York Fashion Week: Preen and Cynthia Rowley

By on February 14, 2010

The other top picks from NYC Day 2 were Brit duo PREEN and native of Chicago, CYNTHIA ROWLEY.

Unerring in their ability to superbly subvert sex appeal, tight PREEN dresses combined high necks, long sleeves and low hems with carefully placed cut-outs revealing peep holes of skin, lace and black gauze. Some went even further as the ratio of flesh to fabric was decidedly top-heavy. One particularly fetching look added a tailcoat to a floral negligee – it was like a naughty public school girl’s walk of shame.

A limited range of black, white, cream and a few purples were the themes that unified this collection of two halves, as all the body consciousness was counter-balanced with boyish tailoring of wide-leg trousers and and loose lines.

Photos: Style.com

Perhaps CYNTHIA ROWLEY got caught up in hype surrounding her home town’s bid for the 2016 Olympics as the Chicagoan’s collection had enough sports-inspired looks to keep Team USA in medal-winning kit for winter.

Aside from clingy sportswear, the other big story of the show was texture, via grass skirt fringing, oodles of ruffles and puffed silk. A base of black and monochrome abstract print was augmented with flashes of brightest primary colours and sometimes all-out rainbow spectrums. A special mention must also go to the shoulder bags with thick hoover-cord straps. Top to toe, it all looked like so much fun to wear.

Photos: Style.com

Also a quick shout out to this amazing dress that I almost missed from day one, by PORTS 1961. It’s like melted chocolate poured over the model. Divine.

Photo: Style.com

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