Jay Briggs

Once upon a time.... In Today's Brand New Art We Heart fashion designer and milliner Jay Briggs takes us on a magical trip into his enchanting creative world. He describes his work as "Captivating the empowerment of women with a dark fairy tale twist" and that he certainly does with his elegant, intricate creations. Out of all the classic fairy tales, Jay's reimagined ones are my favourite. I cannot wait for the next chapter.

Tell us about the inspiration behind the AW15 collection “Ugly Duckling”.

The Ugly Duckling collection was an extension of the exclusive headpieces I made for the Selfridges christmas windows 2014.

The collection is based upon the 1844 Ugly Duckling fairytale by Hans Christian Anderson. I believe the story is a misunderstood universal myth. Its not about becoming who you dream of becoming, its about self-revelation, and becoming who you are. It’s about metamorphosis, constantly transforming into better versions of ourselves. I think their is an element of beauty and elegance in the fact that we all evolve and that process is what the collection is based upon, finding that inner beauty of who you were born to be.

Did you always have a love for fashion design?

The element of making clothes and objects is something that has been with me for as long as I can remember. As a child I’ll never forget not being allowed a barbie doll to dress up and play with, so I created my own by making a wool wig for my TY beanie monkey, making her clothes from bits of fabric my nan gave me and old socks I used to cut up and transform from my mums cleaning cupboard. At Halloween (the only night of the year I was allowed to dress up and get away with it) I would always make my own costume out of bin bags I’d shred and stick together using cello tape. I’d always be the first person in the dressing up box at school and around my friends house, so you could say that the desire for dressing up and transforming into a different character always used to fascinate me. Thats where fashion design came in, as there are no rules, no boundaries, you can create creatures of your imagination.

Your work is so intricate and detailed, with hand gemmed beading, hand stitched feathers and taxidermy. How long does it take to create a piece and where do you source your materials?

It all depends on the piece which I am creating, it could take up to one or three weeks depending on the intricacy of the design, as each piece is made by hand from start to finish, all the lace I use is embroided by hand and each crystal is positioned into place using a pin head. A lot of time, effort, energy and love is devoted to each individual headpiece, which is why they are so special.

I have to work a full time retail job in order to fund my collections as I have no financial backing, which means the pieces are mainly made through the night, which is when I come alive.

The materials I use are responsibly sourced in the UK mainly in London.

In the short time since your graduate collection in 2013, you have carved a well deserved, successful career with your beautiful creations. What have been the highest points of your journey so far?

My journey would never have taken off if it wasn’t for my incredible PR agency (Lewis and Leigh) everything I have achieved is all down to them. Joining the agency opened alot of doors which wouldn’t have been possible otherwise, taking my work to the next level you could say. I owe them everything and simply can’t thank them enough.

Fashion Scout have also been extremely supportive in giving me the platform to showcase my work exactly how I see my vision.

When you work so intensely you don’t get time to reflect on what you have achieved, as your battling on with the next project, giving it all your attention and energy, to achieve the best possible outcome. Although walking down Oxford Street and seeing your work in Selfridges window with a crowd of people gazing at it, is a feeling that cannot be described.

Describe the woman who would wear a Jay Briggs creation?

My muse is a woman people are scared of, a woman who intimidates man, yet captures their attention with her dominance and mystery. Shes powerful yet enchanting, shes not a sexual object. Shes a woman on a mission, shes unapologetic, she knows how to get what she wants, she won’t be stopped, she will break down every barrier set before her.... shes the villain of every fairytale.

Is there anyone in particular that you would love to see wearing your designs?

Grace Jones, she embodies my aesthetic as a designer, bold, powerful and mysterious. You can’t help but be fascinated by her aura and overwhelming dominance.

What advice would you give to aspiring fashion designers?

When you graduate from university, you never know what to expect, they feed you all the basics while your in your cacoon, but its down to you to grow your wings to enable you to fly when you leave, as thats something they cant prepare you for.

My advise is to absorb as much as you can while you are at university/ interning, learn everything you possibly can, which you can build on. Always trust your gut instinct and never be influenced on what to do, if you truly believe in something stand your ground, and let your passion shine through, as when it all comes down to it “fashion” is an industry built on opinions and personal taste, an idea of heaven to someone can be someone’s idea of hell.

Above all never give up, no matter how dark the road may get, however many wrong turns you take, you will grow and develop both creatively and personally, until eventually you find your destination. If Dorothy hadn’t put on the ruby slippers, she would never have found the yellow brick road to lead her to the emerald city.....

What's next for Jay Briggs?

I'm currently finishing off my SS16 collection “sacred treason”, based on the story and life of Anne Boleyn, one of the most important and defining Queen Consorts England has seen, at London Fashion week, as an installation at Fashion Scout. The collection will then go to Paris as part of the Fashion Scout showrooms for Paris Fashion week. At the same time I’m also working on a special and exclusive project which is due to launch around the end of October.

And lastly, what's your favourite fairy tale?

The Brothers Grimm adaptation of “Little Briar Rose” formally known as “Sleeping Beauty”, has to be my favorite, as it possess every aspect which a fairy tale should, magic, folkloric fantasy characters and true love.

I think every chapter twist and turn in life should start with “Once upon a time...” the world would be a much more beautiful place.

Photography and Creative Direction / Fabio Esposito.

Model / Maxine @ Anti-Agency.

Make-up / Nora Belovai.

Hair / Mikio Aizawa.

Assistant / Marco Pantella.