Holly Fulton A/W 2011

Oh, Holly Fulton, can I marry you?
Or at least can we be best friends, so I can raid your wonderful wardrobe?
As you can tell, the NewGen designer’s collection went down rather nicely - a spoonful of sugar (in my giant skimmed latte that I definitely needed before her 9.45 show this morning!)
But sweet it certainly wasn’t, except for maybe the fluffy cream clutch bag or the pop arty lip motif. No, Holly’s catwalk consisted of young, confident looks, all unique but with the same stamping of her recognisable style. Like a melting pot of the last century with a helping of modern twists, her collection happily referenced numerous decades and tribes, and many iconic looks from Britain’s fashion heritage, a bundle of everything you, your mum or your nan might ever have worn.
Tweed was one of them, but nothing like Princess Anne might have worn. Remaking an old favourite, Fulton kept the colours bright (in a shocking canary yellow) the shapes unfussy and the accessories piled high - in the form of aviator sunglasses, bib necklaces and a heavy earrings. She created fun but wearable looks with the fusty fabric in a way that Largerfield simply hasn’t at Chanel.
One took on the form of a 90s hip hop street style bomber jacker, that would look quite at home on Salt or Pepper. One hailed Teen Vogue, a short circle skirt teamed with sheer black tee, while the other went work wear, a smart shift dress with playful jewellery.
The 40s was another clear inspiration - cute as a button headpieces sat casually to the side of an impressive set of roll up ‘do’s, the cherry on top of the uber cool cake. Cleverly, the hat’s circular appearance contrasted the abundance of other geometric shapes on offer - aztec looking halter neck straps and busy japanese style prints.
20s style was also in play, one dress in particular (now I don’t play favourites but…) could have come straight from Daisy Buchanan’s wardrobe in classic film The Great Gatsby. The fluffy fur skirt, the icey neutral tones and the deep V neckline with delicate beading trim… a dress made in flapper heaven.
Though this wasn’t merely a remake of old classics. The simple clean lines of the garments made the collection immediately modern, as did the panels of colour, leather and studded EVERYTHING (from shoes, to whole hats to trouser seams) that will most definitely be appearing EVERYWHERE in the coming summer months.
More than a magpie with a keep eye, Holly Fulton doesn’t just steal style. It’s clear that this talented designer has one all of her own, and everyone wants a piece of the pie.

David Koma’s show was one of famous faces.
Quite literally.
On the front row, Daphne Guiness, Sarah Cameron and Elle’s Anne Marie Curtis all eagerly watched the Georgian’s award winning designs.
Meanwhile, Leigh Bowery strutted down the catwalk - or at least his face did, plastered across three body con dresses, rainbow hallucination of the late great.
The pallet of rich, highlighter pen colours continued through out, cutting through the sea of black. Reds, blues and yellows came in the form of fluffy pom poms, dotted around at every oppertunity: on a choker, peplum, collar and upper arm like humerous arm bands, giving weight to an otherwise sleek silhouette.
An abundance of patent and matt leather was visible, on waist bands and hundereds of disks which reflected the bright catwalk lights, creating a shiny reptile skin effect to add drama to an otherwise tame collection. Hot for dots, the circular theme was carried through many of the twenty four looks, in the form of laser cut holes in a gorgeous hip length cape, and as a reucurring background pattern to accents of fur.
Restrictively high neck lines reminded me of a scornful Victorian teacher, as did a heavy black calf length over coat, though knee high red leather boots and neat pulled back hair kept it modern.
A show of famous faces. And David Koma is surely set to be one.

Daisy x

Illustrations are by the wonderful Olivia Tinker