Safari, supermodels, strangeness

By on October 27, 2009
By Katie Wright
Jaeger London is supposed to have had a youthful resurgence of late, since that promotional Midas, Kate Moss, wore one of their blouses a while ago. I’m not convinced that there’s that much to entice the under-35s. I did like the overall slouchy kind of YSL safari vibe tho.
Jaeger
Issa had possibly the best model line up of the week. Coco, Chanel (see what I did there?), Iekeline, and even Naomi. There may have been some clothes on show too.
Issa
I wish there were more words that meant androgynous. Transgender doesn’t really help when trying to describe a collection that encapsulates ridiculously wide-skirted dresses, fisherman-wader-overalls and a frankly mental tangerine dream (below right). What are you on, Charles Anastase?
Anastase
This Jasmine de Milo t-shirt made me laugh. Shame the rest of her stuff was a bit WAGgy.
Milo

Winter Beauty Trends Forecast

By on October 26, 2009

By Amie Kewley

For Autumn/Winter 09/10, apparently, The Brow Is Back. Or Barely There At All, as the case may be. Prada and Balenciaga showed barely-there brows on their catwalks, lifting the look from scary to showy with a slice of punchy lipstick. On the flipside, House of Holland showcased the new Power Brow-strong, defined, and the perfect accessory for the sharp-shouldered jacket as the authoritarian dresscode fails to wane for AW. Beauty trends for winter continue to flurry between extremes: the Goth glam, fantasy beauty (think dark nails, purple lips and waxed-off eyebrows) vs. the two thousand and eighties 2080’s retrograde power dresser. (Rich red lips, brows so sharp you could cut cheese with them) Sandwiched between these looks lies the perennial fresh faced winter glamazon, (glossy, glossy, glossy) and the key to captivate wintry beauty trends is to lift key aspects from all three to make a look your own.

The barely there brow (smothered with foundation as opposed to plucked to the extreme…though some shows sent models sashaying down the runway with their brows removed entirely…perhaps not to be tried at home) is actually fairly achievable if your bone structure is strong and your face able to carry a browless look. It does look bizarre initially, but pulls all emphasis on to the eyes, so highlight them with a decent mascara to open them up and make sure you prevent the look becoming too ghoulish by slicking on a swipe of deep plum lipstick…reach for a gorgeous pillarbox red if purples or blacks are too ‘gothic’ for your liking.

Alternatively, embrace the New Power Brow. This is a credit-crunch-chic way of hitting a beauty trend…no more forking out for waxing, allow your natural brows to grow and fill in the gaps with a brow pencil. A great tip is to use a chunky concealer pencil-if you are fair, invest in one for dark skins, or go a couple of shades beyond your skin tone, enabling you to draw a thick brow line in one severe swipe. A strong brow, properly done, can completely transform the shape of your face-suddenly, you’ll find you have cheekbones and a jawline. Highlight your new sculpted features with a hint of blusher and apply a sweep of neutral gloss to ensure that your brows are the focal point of your look. Work it with confidence (and a Balmain sequinned extreme-shouldered tee, if the budget allows.)

If deep palettes and invisibrows are just too intense, dip into the Goth glam trend with jewel-toned nail varnishes on short, squared off nails. (Keep black and pointy for Halloween only.) Plums, midnight blues, deep glittery greens and dark pinks look very current and also very smart on shorter nails-it’s an office thumbs up (!) as well as looking great for a night out.

Embrace your inner vamp this winter. There are a plethora of products available to don’t be afraid to experiment. The key to remaining the right side of quirky is to focus only on one key area to highlight…and then go for it with unshakeable aplomb. As granny used to say, “Lips or eyes, never both.”

Paris in black & white

By on October 22, 2009

By Katie Wright

Paris in black & white

Big news in New York, London and Milan, monochrome was a similarly prevalent story across an array of Parisien collections…

More evidence that the boyfriend blazer will still be relevant in 2010, from DRIES VAN NOTEN. For a new twist, wear it falling off one shoulder.

Add to your To Do list for 2010: 1. Buy cycling shorts 2. Get own name tattooed on neck. Thanks, JEAN PAUL GAULTIER.

Cute leather smock at CELINE.

Even head honcho Hannah McGibbons was all white on the night at CHLOE.

HUSSEIN CHALAYAN cheekily inverts the unbuttoned shirt in knicker-revealing style. ELIE SAAB’s LBDs were angular and jewel-heavy. I suspect Swarovski must have been involved.

This look just makes me go OMG I <3 it so bad!!1! Off-the-shoulder sleeves made out of bows + a tiny swishy skirt + sparkly socks + stompy heels = to DIOR for.

Winter Skin Savers

By on October 21, 2009

By Aimee Kewley

The end of October signifies many things…the run up to Christmas is all of a sudden upon us, stores on the high street are crammed with lovely new winter stock, and of course, there is the changing of the clocks, which in turn signifies the seasons clicking over…summer is definitely gone and autumn is hot on its heels, being chased, as it is, by the nimble steps of winter.

What does this mean for our skin? The changing seasons can leave their telltale signs on our faces, as we have to adapt to the onslaught of central heating vs. icy wintry blasts, in-car dashboard heaters and knitted hats as we attempt to beat the chill.

There are a few key products to invest in to protect your visage when the temperature plummets. To help battle the elements, skin needs appropriate armour. Constant fluctuations in temperature can really play havoc with your face, and you may find it becomes oilier or drier in the winter as it struggles to find a balance. Keeping your skin hydrated through the day is the one thing that will keep it looking consistently fresh and glowing (and not just from the cold), and as such it is worth investing in a decent moisturiser.

Dermatologist Dr Nick Lowe has recently released his own range of products which I’ve been testing. The Supercharged Day Cream with SPF 15 (necessary, even in winter) is a lovely light cream which leaves skin soft and hydrated. Prep skin first using a cleansing foam or lotion and massage in for all day smoothness.

Another iconic product that no beauty bag should be without is Elizabeth Arden’s 8 hour cream. A bestselling product, the cream is slightly oily, so only a tiny amount is needed, and you can use it to hydrate and protect skin on the face, as well as doubling up as a lip balm or hand cream.

Clarins classic Beauty Flash Balm is also a handbag must have. This moisturizing cream sinks into your skin leaves it brighter and refined. An essential product…use it to prep your skin before applying your makeup.

If you are a little strapped for cash over the winter months, pick up the one beauty product that I can’t live without: a pot of Blistex lip balm. It keeps your pucker looking perfectly smooth and smoochy, and fends off the horrid winter-chapped-lip attacks. And at less than a fiver a pot, it is super affordable too.

How to face up to the elements this winter? Set up your own beauty routine and treat your skin with respect. Our faces are at the front lines of exposure to winter battering, and, of course, the first thing that people notice when they see us. Fresh, dewy, glowing winter skin is what we all strive for…and with a little bit of love, a few supersonic products, and a teensy bit of cheating (reach for the blusher to give pasty skin a gorgeous glow) it is totally achievable.

B.O.S.S*ballad of…street style

By on October 20, 2009

By Katie Wright

Chances are in the last few weeks you’ll have done one or more of the following: Turned the heating on; attached lights to your bike; made a last minute decision on opaque rather than flesh tights; been moaned to by a colleague that they ‘can’t believe it’s almost Christmas again.’ As depressing as these mundane annual occurrences are, on the other hand it’s now cold enough to start getting excited about winter coats and jackets. Here’s a look at how a few Londoners are covering up in October.

Young Fashionistas Rule The World


By Anisa Riddell

“A tiny 13 year old dork that sits inside all day wearing awkward jackets and pretty hats. Scatters black petals on Rei Kawakubo’s doorsteps and serenades her in rap. I have nowhere near 4 million readers. Rather cynical and cute as a drained rat. In a sewer. Farting. And spitting out guts.”

Seriously, who talks like that? My new favorite little fashionista, Tavi Gevinson!

Well, it’s just the hottest topic happening here in the States……YOUNG FASHIONISTAS ARE TAKING OVER THE WORLD! Yup, like aliens striking down to take over, the youngsters have taken the fashion industry by the reins, and I gotta say, we kinda like it.

The most notable and youngest fashionista to grace us with her presence is Tavi Gevinson (age 14). This little nugget (as described above) is the most widely known fashion blogging sensation of ‘Style Rookie who has created quite the following: close to 4 million followers (and counting).

She’s drawn to designers like Comme des Garcons and Yohji Yamamoto; and is religiously followed by Laura and Kate Mulleavy of Rodarte who initially discovered Gevinson, recently making her their muse for their current collection. “Tavi makes you think about things differently. Makes you see things differently”, said Kate Mulleavy. She had a chance to meet these fashion celebs, as well as many others, during her one week stint at New York’s Fashion Week this year (oh, did I mention she was personally invited to sit front row at the shows? Yeah…must be nice.)

Fashion industry insiders describe bloggers like Gevinson as being on the “frontline of fashion” due to their insightful, hilarious, and often snappy quips that immediately attract readers. Check out these May 2009 blog entries from ‘Style Rookie’:

Sonia Rykiel Spring 2009

sonia rykiellla, ella, ella, ay, ay, ay

Whaddup outdated pop references. Anyway…I loooved Sonia Rykiel. I imagine that for models it must be a very fun show since they can smile and laugh and be a little goofy and not stagger like they are going to murder someone/walk very intently towards the end of a walkway only to angrily turn back.” Tavi Gevinson, Style Rookie, May 10, 2009.

Prada Spring 2009

“The trench is a BIT too similar to the Prada one from forever ago and I am not totally on board with the palm tree (guess it makes it more Spring) but I am all for the random mutating shoulder bouquet and the SR initials. And the fancy little number on the far left is calling my name.”

“What a lovely thing to come home to after throwing up in gym class! I swear that is as stereotypically “middle school” as it gets.” Tavi Gevinson, Style Rookie, May 10, 2009.

Gevinson, amongst other young fashion bloggers is literally touching the hearts of millions, 65 million to be exact: the Millennials. They’re enthusiastic about trends, constantly seek out “status” brands, and are obsessed with image and technology. Wielding Mommy and Daddy’s credit cards, they bombard (and rule) malls and boutique-lined streets. They automatically relate to the young fashion bloggers because essentially they are speaking the same language of these image obsessed young fashionistas. Alternately, the blogs of young fashionistas drive our decisions in purchasing. Their fashion insight is so incredible that they essentially fuel their own trend cycles.

“Thanks to Tavi”, WGSN says, “12 is the new 20.”

My, how great it feels to be young again.

Sex appeal and spacemen

By on October 19, 2009
By Katie Wright
Sex appeal and spacemen
BALMAIN’s recent resurgence in popularity has been one of the big fashion stories of 2009 – you can’t open a glossy magazine at the moment without seeing one of those ubiquitous pointy-shouldered dresses. That reign looks set to continue come spring. The shoulders-as-erogenous-zone focus remains, but with more epaulettes and fringe detail rather than just sharp angles. The sex appeal of the dresses is ramped up (if that were possible) with slits and slashes all over the place, while the bodycon tightness is enhanced with goddess draping in dark golden metallics.
Never undeserving of the praise heaped on him, Nicolas Ghesquiere put out a triumvirate of very strong looks at BALENCIAGA. First, skintight black leather silhouettes topped and tailed with astronaut influences – spacesuit-thick hoods on jackets and peep-toe moonboots. Next, a bunch of pale sixties shifts with graphics in bright accent colours. And finally, modern art references; patches of leather pieced together on a minidress and, more literally, angular brush stroke prints that I think the Cubists would approve of.
Unusually, Karl Lagerfeld’s eponymous line was a more sober affair than his Chanel collection, all sleek lines and cinched waists in mostly black and white. It was far from humourless though – does look 23 (below) remind you of anyone?

Sarah Maple

By on October 16, 2009

By Aimee Kapfunde

Is a woman wearing a burka with a badge reading: I love orgasm art? It may not be as intricate as Picasso, but it tells a secret story that “Muslim women enjoy sex too” says artist Sarah Maple. Good art tells tales about the word, nature, people, and civilisation that we otherwise choose to ignore. As Maple prepares for her first solo exhibition in New York, Aimee Kapfunde looks at the controversy surrounding her artistic career.

‘This Artist Blows’ was Maple’s debut show last year at the SaLon Gallery in west London, it was a culmination of work that evocatively explored religion, pop culture, and the idea of self in the western world. The exhibition triggered an extraordinary response vandalism, abusive emails, and even death threats to the Muslim artist and her family. The Islamic community was appalled and condemned her work deeming it as offensive, demining, shameful, and more importantly non Islamic - why the backlash?

The contemporary artist, Sarah Maple is a mix of two conflicting worlds: west meets east, her Father is British whereas her Mother is Kenyan. Raised as a Muslim while attending a Catholic school in Eastbourne, Maple best describes herself as a “Muslim with a white face.” Confusing, yes. Sarah admits to feeling: “Torn between the two [cultures], I really wanted to be a good Muslim …but because I’m white people never thought I was.”


Amongst other influences and inspirations like the Kate Moss, England, and voyeurism, the cultural and religious conflict of being a ‘good’ Muslim in a western world shapes Maple’s work. Specialising in painting and photography in a series of intimate self portraits, Sarah uses tongue and cheek humor to portray racism, sexism and Islamophobia, issues dominant in modern Britain.

Maple is undoubtedly most famous for her painting entitled: Haram, a self portrait of herself wearing the hijab whilst cradling a piglet. This image is beyond captivating - are Muslims allowed to do this? The Quran preaches the dietary laws in which Muslims must abide by; including abstaining from pork because pigs are viewed as dirty animals, but Maple see’s no harm in cradling a young piglet. This painting is “my favourite” she boasts but, it is the most disliked amongst fellow Muslims: Dr Abdulkarim Khalil, of the Al-Manaar Muslim Cultural Heritage Centre in London, accuses the young artist of purposely trying to offend people; another Muslim leader calls the Haram an “insult in the name of Art.” The criticism continues, Maple is one tick pony “relying purely on being an attractive Muslim”, says an anonymous commentator on Myartspace.com – how wrong they all are.

“When people say I’m taking the piss, it’s so hurtful because my work is so deep rooted with growing up and how bad I felt…my work is deeper than people think”

Maple takes fabricated scenes and situations and uses them as “food for thought” for her audience, pairing things that you wouldn’t assume go together but belong together, for example Islam and sex “why can’t a woman in Islamic clothing love orgasms” she asks “why is this so bad?”

Like many artist’s Sarah yearns to be liked, and appreciates the comparisons made between herself and the art legend Tracey Emin (made by the Independent on Sunday). The Kingston graduate already has a loyal following and is thrilled at the thought of her solo exhibition in New York “where people actually have to pay to view it” she screams – an entry fee, a definite sign of making it.

“I want to be liked…and I don’t want to offend anybody or upset anyone – but sometimes you have to do that to raise a point.” Her work is more than just humorous, people are always suggesting that she should paint “a pig wearing a burka” because that would be hilarious “but I only do things that are intelligent and make valid points”. So as funny as a pig in a burka may be, it has no place in any of Sarah’s work. “I would never do something that would offend someone seriously.”

Sarah’s forthcoming show scheduled for the end of the year is based on retrospect, it will look back at her career so far with a selection of her best photographs and paintings. She hopes the exhibition will include the Haram, a piece which was essential to her development, and first established her as the young, attractive and innovative artist that the world now knows.
At only 23, Maple’s professional career has been short but really jumpstarted after winning the Channel Four award: ‘4 New Sensations’ and The Saatchi Gallery award for the “most talented and imaginative artist graduating in the UK”. The Saatchi winner is decided by a public vote, and Sarah stole this with her brave and blunt poster campaign urging voters: “Vote for me or you’re Racist, Vote for me or you’re Sexist, Vote for me or you’re Islamophobic, and Vote for me or you’re an IslamophobicSexistRacist.”

These three themes are dominant in all of Maple’s work so far, but she assures us that she is a “genre spanner” in her own words, so there is no fear of tired repetition.

“I’m on a journey I’m growing up. I don’t know what I think about things…but I’m making new work all the time.”

Ambition is what drives the young Muslim artist, and amidst all of the abuse and death threats it still means “more to me to be a successful artist than anything else”, she can’t think of another job that she would rather do – and unlike other graduates who have a plan A, B, C, and D to fall back on, plan B for Sarah is simply “suicide” that’s how passionate she is. “I want this so badly” she smiles.

Muslims, Catholics, Africans, or British, the one thing we all have in common is death, it is promised to every one of us. In death Maple aspires to be “the Michael Jackson of the art world.” An icon you either love or hate. “If everyone liked my work it would be boring” she says.
So, is America ready for this straight talking, feminist, Muslim, starlet, whose artwork asks: “Have you wanked over me yet?”

Avant-garde Stars

By Katie Wright

Avant-garde Stars

Having watched him fly the LFW nest earlier this year as recipient of the ANDAM Award, GARETH PUGH, London’s finest young export, continues to do us proud. For his second Paris outing Pugh’s creations looked like they could have come straight out of the wardrobe department of a Tim Burton film i.e. dark and slightly disturbing. Pulled apart, though, this collection is more user-friendly than at first glance. OK, so a dove-shaped headpiece may not be for everyone, but grey drainpipes, Bretagne stripe sweater dresses and peep-toe boots are the kind of staples Pugh has expertly reinvented for spring, plus a few statement coats all in a variety of ashy greys

Following in the footsteps of Pugh, fellow Londoner GILES DEACON admitted he was aware of the commercial potential of relocation to Paris. “I just wanted to do more real-life, obtainable clothes,” he said backstage, and that’s what he delivered. So much so that you could easily have mistaken this collection for, say, Luella, were it not for the typically black humoured Giles overtones, like spider prints and the brilliant shiny plush toy dinosaur bags. I can only hope that it was the same black humour that led to (eek!) corset dresses and (double eek!) kitten heels. Either way, this was yet another designer in nineties mode.
Sure to be cited as an inspiration to our golden boys Pugh and Deacon, MAISON MARTIN MAGIELA has suffered a quite spectacular fall from grace this season. It had been rumoured for months that Margiela himself was no longer at the house, and when confirmation of this departure came in the same week as a dire spring collection, the fashion world was not impressed. Even the party mood created on stage with a finale of tons of models milling about and streamers flying couldn’t detract from the sheer ugliness of some of these pieces, like the super-baggy thigh boots and nappy-ish shorts. I have to admit, however, that I do love the desert island dress below.

Three of a kind

By on October 14, 2009
By Katie Wright - Three of a kind
I have to abandon my Olympic rating system now, since the three next best shows from Paris are essentially inseparable – all beautiful, youthful and slightly cerebral.
Elbar Albaz nailed it yet again at LANVIN. The formula remained the same – puffy 3-D dresses that make it impossible to tell when the folds and clouds of fabric start and end – but my gosh they are gorgeous. As the show went on the gowns (and occasional jumpsuit) became more blingy and sparkly. How did Albaz accessorise his girls? With layers of art deco necklaces, gallons of black eye-makeup and a fierce glare.
How good would it be to be Miuccia Prada’s daughter? She makes a whole new MIU MIU collection every season that’s perfectly pitched for the twenty-something market – somewhere between sexy and witty; retro and forward-thinking. For spring that means high-waisted skirts with tiny cropped jackets, bra tops, sixties sleeves and adorable cat and dog prints.
Like fellow Italian Alberta Ferretti, this season GIAMBATTISTA VALLI went about reinventing the flapper for 2010. This lead to a focus largely below the belt; some great mini-crinis, two-toned feathery hula skirts and, my favourites, shiny black fringed numbers that might have you reaching for cassette tapes to dissemble and recycle.
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