Alphabet Fashion

By on September 26, 2009

By Helen Shaw

A is for Abstract.

The quality of ‘abstract’ is one in which is perhaps diverse, oxymoronic and fundamentally flawed. On one hand, to be ‘abstract’ is to be absolute; it is everything which is not, abnormal, overt, and even dangerous. It is complex in its varied form, indefinable in its concrete meaning. Abstract can be flawed, imperfect and above all, inspirational. Abstract art, architecture and fashion all collate to create a stance, an empowering collection of beliefs, ideas and forms which deviate from the mundane realities of an otherwise banal existence. Abstract fashion allows us to move away from convention, encompassing modernity and the avant-garde to embrace creativity, to grasp the ‘other’. Art has never been so prolific in fashion design, take Yves Saint Lauren’s literal translation of Piet Mondrian’s compositions as seen above. Abstract is transferable and interchangeable, moving from art to mode fluidly.

Fashion borrows, steals and imitates the world around us, past and present, delving into forgotten era and falling through time to unlived, futuristic style. Fashion has furthermore become abstract, a concept, and more literally, a reflection between abstract art, sculpture, architecture and modern culture. As the pace of the modern world ever increases to the point of frenzy, the world of fashion follows suit, and as the world grows and metropolis and urban life reigns, fashion can only embrace and enhance a theory of chaos, a mix and match amalgamation of old and new.

Abstract fashion, just as abstract art moved away from the boundaries of tradition and the expected, progresses towards the obscure, imaginative and overt grandeur of abstract ideology. The influence of art and sculpture is now replaced by obscure objects, such as stained glass, vintage treasures and perfume bottles, exactly as seen at A/W 09 catwalk shows by Mary Katrantzou…

As the fashion of the 1950s represented the wholesome image of the traditional, nuclear lives of the people, and the safe cars, safe jobs, safe marriages, the fashion of today represents the unease and unrest of today’s ‘fash pack’ when considering the prescribed uniform of high street stores. The generation of style now is uncomfortable with everyday banality, instead choosing to merge and mix with each other, a sporadic exchange between eras, tailoring, cultural influence and music. When one trend is popularised or ‘Topshopped’, young people now moved on and look towards alternative sources of inspiration. It is chameleon fashion, disposable, interchangeable and raw.
The Generation is Now.
The Generation is Abstract.

Louise vs Louise

By on September 24, 2009

By Katie Wright

Louise vs Louise

I know it’s a cheap trick, but ain’t it fun when two people have similar names and you can compare them nicely side by side? A case in point being Misses Louise Gray and Goldin, talented upstarts of the London scene, both showing this week.

Louise Goldin: On the whole, it’s chic, it’s cute, the sherbert colours are sweet, there are some great tattoo-y tights, and the shiny spiky shoes are ace. Plus who wasn’t waiting for the comeback of the cone bra? Good effort, Goldin.

Louise Gray: Talk about inventive. This is what London is all about for me. Half the collection seems to be made out of plastic bags e.g. a giant pendant (or is it a bag?) in baby pink, and a belt made out of those particularly darling blue corner shop bags. Add to that graffiti scrawls, misshapen tulip skirts and cut-outs that reveal coloured belly buttons…and we have a winner.

Sharing is good. Thank you The Temper Trap.

On Monday I met a band called The Temper Trap. They are from Australia and being descendants of convicts like myself they are also connoisseurs of an Aussie musician (and possible institution) called John Williamson, which is basically meaningless to you and this blog but was a nice ice breaker for me - nothing like singing about Cockatoos and Vegemite to soften a mood.

They were surprisingly shy for a band that are plastered all over Sky the now, except when they’re doing impressions of boxing commentators incredibly well. We decided we ought to move to Japan although Lorenzo (gee-tar) is concerned about how we’d collectively survive, which is a kind thought. Myself and Dougy (vocals etc) believe it better to be poor in Japan than here. On the other hand,Dougy also thought it was Wednesday.

As a band it’s taken me aaaages to get into them. I liked their song Science of Fear and because I generally steer clear of ballads (the irony) from rock bands Sweet Disposition sort of passed me by at first. Anyway, they recorded a nice version for me and you can have it right here!

Thank you Dougy and Lorenzo. Who are below, up front and looking street… in their little cage (?).

Cam

London Fashion Week - day 3

By on September 22, 2009

By Katie Wright

Towering heels and huge hair made Danielle Scutt’s models even more ridiculously tall than your average.. Add to that dresses that emphasised a womanly figure and it all seemed a little bit pantomime to me – but in a good way. Kooky-beautiful is kind of what Scutt does, and she’s done it again here: adorning clingy feminine silhouettes with checks, spots and squiggles.

PPQ’s use of all black models didn’t seem so much a statement about race in the fashion world, as simply the right choice for a collection that could be summed up with two words: ethnic eighties.
At the other end of the spectrum, Osman Yousefzada’s choice of ‘any colour as long as it’s white’ was rather dull, but it did provide the ideal solution if you had to go to a high-end toga party. So, every cloud…

B.O.S.S.*ballad of street style

By Katie Wright
On the day that everyone’s favourite street style photographer, The Sartorialist (thesartorialist.blogspot.com), signes copies of his new coffee table book, here’s the first batch of a few choice looks that have caught my eye recently.

Yasmin, accessories designer, wears a trench by, you guessed it, Burberry. Yasmin recommends the new Hobbs NW3 collection www.hobbs.co.uk/index.cfm?page=1309
Doctor Tanya wears a vintage dress from thrift store paradise Beyond Retro www.beyondretro.com/

Photographer Lily wears a batwing mini dress from French Connection. Check out Lily’s amazing photography at http://www.lillianwilkie.co.uk/

Nadine is head to toe in American Apparel with Topshop shoes. Get yours here http://americanapparel.net/ and here http://www.topshop.com/

London Fashion Week

By on September 21, 2009
By Katie Wright
So it’s kick off for London Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2010. The capital known for its mix of hot young designers and heritage superstars turns 25 this year, and the whole operation has moved to Somerset House. In a show of solidarity with the ailing retail industry, Downing Street hosted an opening night party on Friday, and morale seems high amongst the Brit fashion pack. Here’s hoping this silver anniversary year is a vintage one…
Identified by Ballad Of’s Gussy as one to watch this season, Mark Fast didn’t fail to deliver on day one. A collection comprised almost entirely of super tight, skimpy, short dresses embellished with the crochet and fringe detailing for which Fast has become known meant for plenty of sex appeal. It may sound unforgiving on the body, but, in the first surprise of the week (it’s already generating column inches) several looks were sported by models who are decidedly ‘plus size’ by industry standards.
Elsewhere, Bora Aksu showed a different take on the underwear-as-outwear trend, veering closer to pyjama territory, and had the best tights I’ve seen so far – half sheer, half glittery, totally amazing.

Spring 2010 fashion blooms! Get ready for a little romance, and lots of raw sexy styling

By: Anisa Riddell

What’s the hottest thing happening in the US? New York Fashion Week, of course!

The week was filled with endless runway designs from the usual suspects. Spring 2010 showed that romance is not dead and vintage 70′s/80′s glam is back with a vengeance! Here’s a taste of some eye opening performances…
Woodstock chic is how Vivienne Tam’s collection would be categorized. Can’t you just envision ideas of peace and freedom flowing through these delicately patterned dresses?
Photo credits: Style.com,
Vivienne Tam Spring 2010
Environmentally friendly Costello Tagliapietra supported the environment with their eco-friendly line made through a process called Air Dye - which dyes and prints textiles without water (isn’t it just amazing what we can do these days?!). Adding to that, some of the designs had Swarovski embedded crystals. Nice!

Photo credits: Style.com,
Costello Tagliapietra Spring 2010
With Marc Jacobs’ immense talent, it’s perplexing that he has yet to win the CFDA award.
Perhaps his Spring 2010 collection will change all that. We’ll see. In the meantime, to sump up the Marc Jacobs collection…think space age meets twisted romance. The collection was filled with ruffles, lettuce frills, and teasing sexuality as models with alien eyes and painted white
faces brought a sexy quirky edge to Fashion Week.

Photo credits: Style.com
Marc Jacobs Collection Spring 2010

In contrast, the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection showcased the fun wacky side of his design aesthetic with the 80′s being in full effect against his retro take on Africana.

Photo credits: Style.com
Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2010
Making ugly pretty again, yet animalistic at the same time, the Mulleavy sister duo making up Rodarte have done it again. Noting a heavy Gothic them throughout, Rodarte showed the wild side of fashion with their dark styling and tribal tattoos.
Photo credits: Style.com,
Rodarte Spring 2010
Romanticism played a tremendous part at both the Matthew Williamson and Vera Wang shows. Whereas light pastels, flowy florals, hints of leather paired with silks, and crystal embossed dresses played a huge part at the Matthew Williamson show; on the flip side, Vera Wang turned the tables with dark romanticism and a little bit rock n’ roll. One word for both: Gorgeous!
Photo credits: Style.com,
Matthew Williamson Spring 2010
A few notable mentions…
Rebecca Taylor, known for flirty dresses yearned for a more solid, structured silhouette this
spring. Carmen Marc Valvo stayed true to his standard designs with floor length, body-skimming gowns. Erin Fetherston started the collection with prim and proper conservatism that transitioned to sexy and wild at the end.
J Mendel’s signature furs and floor length gowns were absent this year. He surprised us with a much shorter dress collection, limited gown selection, and not a fur in sight. Caroline Herrera was so transfixed by the ideas of basket cases (her main inspiration for Spring 2010) that she ‘wowed’ us with suits, blouses, and gowns mimicking this idea. (Who knew you could do so
much with a basket case?) And, last but not least, prints ruled the runway for designers like Thakoon, Zac Posen, Jason Wu, and Proenza Schuler in florals, animals, and dip-dyed colors.
Photo credits: Style.com,
Zac Posen Spring 2010

Although there were mixed reviews from the critics, overall September’s fashion week brought something new and different. Designers constantly challenged themselves versus sticking with the norm. Bravo! I say. It’s exhilarating to be hit with the unexpected.
For now, we’ve bid adieu to New York’s Fashion Week as it makes its way to London. So, what did we learn from this week long extravaganza?
Photo credits: Style.com,
Donna Karan Spring 2010

If you didn’t like the 80′s before, too bad so sad, because it’s back. Sexy styling will be in the
forms of sheer fabrics which will consistently make your imagination run rampant, and ripped, slashed, beaten forms of the new ugly pretty. Prints, prints, and more prints will dominate as
we say ‘goodbye’ to neons and bright colors of seasons’ past. Spring 2010 is all about red and muted pastels. Hot sexy red and happy pretty pastels. We couldn’t of asked for more!
Check out more shows from New York Fashion here at Style.com.
Off to you London!

And that’s a wrap… NYC

By on September 18, 2009
By Katie Wright

Two-Day Top Ten As New York draws to a close, here’s a run down of my top ten looks from the past couple of days:

Proenza Schouler. The metallic sheen and jewel tones of this collection full of mini-length hems brought to mind beetles and bugs for me.

Marchesa. Origami pleats and folds were centre stage at the label that might as well be the official sponsor of red carpets everywhere.
Marc by Marc Jacobs. The mood was a lot more playful at Mr. Jacobs’ diffusion line – and he’s still obsessed with the 80s it seems.

Narciso Rodriguez. I wonder if this grey floor-lengther is sold with a giant fan on wheels, for constant billowing effect wherever you go.
Doo.ri. Who says goth-chic is only for winter?

Temperley London. The emphasis was really on the London here. Do Americans know what a pearly queen is? Now they do. And they’ll be dressing like one come spring.

3.1 Philip Lim. You can’t beat a shiny red flasher mac in my book.

Rodarte. I usually adore everything the Mulleavy sisters do, but for next season they’ve gone seriously dark – think primeval warrior woman – and I found myself wishing for a bit more of the prettiness they’re famed for.

Michael Kors. Kors seemed to be gazing into space with star prints and futuristic shapes.

Vera Wang. It was all about accessories here – I’d take the shoes and gigantic necklace over the outfit any day.

New York Fashion Week - day 6

By Katie Wright
Probably the most highly anticipated collection of NYFW, Marc Jacobs was as prolific as ever. A spectacular swarm of references (Japan, gypsies, eighties, Elizabethans and many more) was spread over more than 50 looks. The two unifying factors I saw were the Flamenco-esque ruffles that adorned everything from midi-length skirts to the shoulders of belted blazers, and the pale icy hues throughout.

Check out this particularly genius Marc creation below, it’s as if it’s been scribbled straight on to the model.

Much warmer were the offerings from Carolina Herrera and Zac Posen. The former’s brand of grown-up glamour came in a range of sandy and sunset tones:

And Posen’s mood was fresh and youthful while channelling a sixties vibe. The tinted transparent raincoats and flower-strewn gowns were real standouts.

Winter Trends and How To Wear Them

By on September 17, 2009

By Charlotte Hoyle

Its official summer is over. However despite the chill in the air we can cling to the exciting prospect of new winter wardrobes. So as we face darker nights, colder mornings and even more rain think happy thoughts as this year sees a varied take on winter fashion.

Luella A/W 09/10 - Tweed coat with gold buttons - Image Vogue.com

Summer saw an array of 80’s inspired prints, statement jewelry and neon brights - we were all about the floral cream tea look meets House of Holland on acid, but winter has a more somber palette of luxury midnight colours complimented by heavy textiles such as leather and tweed seen at fashion brands Burberry and Luella.

Emilio Pucci A/W 09/10 - High shoulder leather jacket worn with leather shorts and high leg leather boots - Image Vogue.com, Kate Moss Starksy leather jacket - Image Marie Claire

Leather jackets are currently massive on the high street, the perfect casual cover up favored by Kate Moss and Pixie Geldof, if you don’t have one invest now. Fake leather is just as good and the high street showcases various styles of the biker jacket depending on your price range.

Left SAVE: Leather look studded biker jacket New Look £40

Right SPLURGE: Leather studded Mohan biker jacket All Saints £395

The feel is not subtle as the attitude to create a stir is still present in decorated surreal like hosiery and evocative accessories which were seen at Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton. Jewelry is almost architectural in design, a modernist take on shapes taken from punk jewelry of the 1980’s with a nod to sleek luxury. Its all about over accessorizing with statement pieces to create an almost bejeweled look.

Left SPURGE: Emanuel Ungaro - Image Vogue.com

Right SAVE: Bebaroque Suki Jewelled Tights £42 mytights.com

Several trends are present each a development of the former thus creating a symbiotic feel within the collections, each an inky shade from this seasons palette. Pick items that are shades of berries such as violet, blue and purple, rich regal colours to be worn alongside stormy shades of grey and black. Or take note in the opposing dreamy pastels seen at Balenciaga and Lanvin.

ABOVE: Elise Overland Image Vogue.com, Rare by the Saturday’s Purple Tulip dress ASOS £40 worn with wrap over double studded belt ASOS £12 creates the look.

Silhouettes are dramatic and highlighting the waist is key in many looks, whether through thin belts, cut of fabric or wide Japanese obi belts. Shoulders are high and sculptural with fabric spilling over in pleats or stratospheric like fur adornments; if not shoulders then arms see drama in fur or fringe embellishment. The best place to find your very own piece of couture at a fraction of the price is to either visit vintage stores or invest in a piece created by a fashion student/graduate. Stores such as Rokit (www.rokit.co.uk), Absolute Vintage (www.absolutevintage.co.uk) and Beyond Retro (www.beyondretro.com) offer an online vintage experience if you aren’t in the London area. Seeking out young designers is rather more obscure, Camden Lock and Petticoat Lane markets offer a range of usual pieces for the same price (if not less) as a high street garment, however if this is not viable then check out ASOS’s Laden Showroom range (www.ladenshowroom.co.uk). Situated in Brick Lane the store is a mecca of usual goods and is well known in the industry for unique finds.

ABOVE: 1980′s Black Ruche Dress with Diamate detail £65 at Rokit - www.rokit.co.uk

Continuing with the trends, femininity is present in plunge neck shapes, lucid textiles and revealing skirts; fabric is manipulated around the body to create fluid shapes in silk and organza, which are fitted to the female form.

ABOVE: Louis Vuitton A/W 09/10 - Image Vogue.com, Nude Ruffle Dress £40 Topshop, Mango Waist Belt £23 ASOS.com, Short Statement Heavy Link Chain Necklace £12 ASOS.com

The feel is very evocative, desirable and emotive. So take a deep breath pull on your knee high boots, grab your oversized clutch and plunge into the glamour of Autumn Winter 2009.

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